BBL Imperial Biscotti Break on the way

EvilTwin

We’ve gotten Biscotti Break and it’s imperial big brother. We’ve gotten it with chilies and hazelnuts, and with cherries. Some of us have even gotten it with jalapenos and Spanish ham. But aged in bourbon barrels? That’s a new one.

Coming soon from Evil Twin – and brewed and aged at Westbrook – is yet another take on the imperial stout brewed with coffee, vanilla and almonds. This time, the beer has been aging in mystery bourbon barrels since January. As Westbrook did with its BA Mexican Cake, the base beer was aged first, then the adjuncts were added after it was racked.

Around 350 cases were produced and could hit SC markets as soon as this week.

Westbrook Mexican Cake

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Westbrook Brewing Co.

Mt. Pleasant, SC

Mexican Cake Imperial Stout

10.5% ABV

Dec. 20, 2010, will always be one of the most important days in the history of Westbrook. On that day, the fledgling Mt. Pleasant brewery sold its very first keg of beer, thus christening what has become one of the best breweries in the entire Southeast.

This past January, to celebrate its first year, Westbrook produced Mexican Cake, a 10.5% imperial stout aged on cocoa nibs, vanilla beans, cinnamon sticks and fresh Habanero peppers. I don’t remember much initial fanfare about the beer when it was first released – beer store shelves were stocked with it for weeks – but suddenly, word caught on far and wide about just how phenomenal the beer was. Soon after, it completely disappeared from shelves and reached whale status pretty quickly.

Me, being naive and all, bought just one bottle to save and enjoy later. By the time I made another beer run, it had disappeared. To be fair, my one bottle netted me a Bourbon County Brand Coffee Stout, so it’s not as if it was all for naught. And since then, the beer has popped up here and there at festivals and tastings.

With the brewery just turning 2 years old, more and more has trickled out into the market with rumors of another bottled batch being released early next year. I was fortunate enough to grab a half growler from a local beer store – one does not simply pass up Mexican Cake on tap – and relived the magic.

The first thing that catches your attention is the pour. To say this thing is thick is an understatement. It’s almost akin to pouring melted chocolate with how thick and viscous it is.  Whatever half finger of head there is dissipates almost instantly, leaving behind massive alcohol legs.

After a year in a keg, the spice on the nose has certainly mellowed quite a good bit, but in your back of your nostrils is this lingering bite that’s unmistakable. It starts as a dry cocoa powder note, followed by a bit bite of cinnamon and finished off by a pinch of the peppers. They’re all very dry and grating spices on their own, but the incredibly rich, chocolate notes provide a perfect balance. While it could easily be too overpoweringly sweet or spicy, it’s not. All the notes on the nose are perfectly complimented and balanced.

If the nose wasn’t enough of an indication of how amazing this beer is, the taste removes all doubt. It starts with just of pinch of dark chocolate bitterness. It slips across the tongue, coupled with just enough carbonation to not make it sludgy. I know I describe a lot of beers as being like velvet on your tongue, but this one takes the cake in that department (no pun intended). In the middle of the mouth are big flavors of sweet dark chocolate, cinnamon, caramel, vanilla, espresso and cream.

A year ago, the finish on Mexican Cake really sneaked up on you. This rich, chocolatey stout all of a sudden exploded into this fiery, peppery monster and was then immediately brought back down to Earth by the richness. The heat lingered on the back of your throat and tongue and only intensified as you drank more. But not once did it ever become overpowering or too much. Time has certainly mellowed this beer. The heat is certainly still there on the end, but it’s much milder that I remember it being. But it does build after a while and reminds me of why I fell in love with this beer so easily.

Westbrook Vanilla Tree Dubbel

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Westbrook Brewing Co.

Mt. Pleasant, SC

Vanilla Tree Dubbel

7.5 % ABV

Another Westbrook brew gracing the shelves this time of year is Vanilla Tree Dubbel, a Belgian-style dubbel aged brewed with dark crystal malts, dark Belgian candi sugar and then aged on vanilla beans and toasted oak chips. Having only tried a sampling of it last year and knowing there were a lot of infection problems with the previous batch, I was a bit hesitant going on. But I now count this as one of my favorite seasonals from Westbrook, if not one of my favorites from them in general.

The appearance is that of a classic dubbel. It’s a very deep, murky brown verging on a black, but there is a little bit of light coming through around the edges. It gives it a amberish tint in spots. There’s a finger and a half of a creamy off-white head. It dissipates quickly but leave a light, bubbly film on the edges of the glass. The lacing’s watery and falls off quickly, but there is a good alcohol leg film left behind.

The vanilla on the nose is a big, sticky sweet note. It’s really creamy and rich, and is backed and cut nicely by the bite of the oak. That oak note is very light and just faintly there. All of this is on top of the flavors you’d expect in a dubbel: plums, figs, caramel, etc. There’s also a bit of a chocolate note to it, too, which I think is brought out by the vanilla. It’s rich and smooth and delicious.

The richness of the beer is the first thing that hits your palate. It’s very smooth on the front of the tongue and has just a bit of carbonation. The vanilla beans really pop towards the middle of the mouth, adding to that rich, flavorful body. On the back, the oak really develops nicely and is a bit more pronounced than on the nose, but again is just very slight and not overpowering. The vanilla masks some of the caramel and dark fruit notes, but they’re there. It’s a bit sweeter than you get with most classic dubbels and lacks a lot of the carbonation that helps pop open your taste buds, but the rich vanilla and oak qualities add a nice touch.

While the flavors you love and expect from a Belgian dubbel are certainly part of the Vanilla Tree Dubbel, the oak and vanilla flavors are what linger the most. In a way, they kind of bring out the flavors of the dubbel, but they also help showcase new ones. The chocolate quality was just slight enough to be noticeable and was a unique taste for something like this.

Widmer Brothers Kill Devil

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Widmer Brother Brewing

Portland, OR

Brothers’ Reserve Kill Devil Brown Ale

9.5% ABV

You know when you go to the grocery store and scan the aisles for something new to try, and you see a few different six packs from a brewery you’ve heard of before and think, “Nah, that’s probably nothing special”? In short, that’s my relationship with Widmer Brothers.

You can walk into any grocery store around here and find plenty of Drifter Pale Ale, or Drop Top Amber Ale, or their Hefeweizen, but in my experience, they’re always one of those last resort craft beer choices. I can’t say I blame people for passing over them. I’ve found nothing about the aforementioned beers that would really push me to buy them again.

But I’ll be damned if I have not been proven wrong time and time again with what these guys have been cranking out recently.

The Rotator Series of IPAs is consistently impressive. The Alchemy Project – Barrel Aged Brrrbon, Raspberry RIS – is stellar. And the Brothers’ Reserve series … well, I’m getting to how awesome those beers can be.

While they (sadly) don’t make it anymore, the Prickly Pear Braggot was my first introduction to the series. At 10%, it knocked me on my then-novice beer geek ass, and the series has continued to be stellar ever since. The Galaxy Hopped Barleywine and Lemongrass Wheat Ale are excellent and unique, and that trend continues to Kill Devil Brown Ale.

It’s no ordinary brown ale, though. At 9.5%, the beer is brewed with palm sugar and two types of molasses, then aged in Puerto Rican rum barrels. So, a sweeter high ABV barrel-aged brown ale? Yuuup.

The pour is a mild hazy brown and copperish amber color. There’s half a finger of a really light head that doesn’t do much for lacing, but there are some very strong alcohol legs.

The rum on the nose is insane. I could smell it from a few feet away after I poured it in the glass. There’s a strong caramel and toffee note, definitely a sweetness from the molasses along with burnt sugar. That standard brown ale maltiness is present as well as big oak and vanilla notes. While the rum is overpowering, it surprisingly wasn’t boozy.

There’s a very slight hop bitterness on the front of the tongue. It’s very smooth and sweet on the palate and ends with a big punch of toffee, burnt sugar, black licorice and plums. It settles into a much sweeter note with lots of the molasses, vanilla and oak. The rum is, again, very prevalent on the finish and only slightly boozy. It’s a very malty and toasty beer with big sweet flavors.

Forgive me, Widmer Brothers, for ever doubting you. Keep putting out stuff like this and I’ll continue to wax poetic.

Terrapin/Shmaltz Reunion Ale 2012

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Terrapin Beer Co. – Athens, GA

Shmaltz Brewing Co. – Saratoga Springs, NY/San Francisco, CA

Reunion Ale ’12 Brown Ale

8% ABV

For the past few years, the folks Terrapin have released their annual Reunion Ale as part memorial, part fundraiser in honor of their friend Virginia MacLean. In 2007, MacLean lost her battle with Multiple Myeloma, a type of bone cancer, and every year the Athens-based brewery releases a different beer to help raise funds for the Institute of Myeloma & Bone Cancer Research.

Each year produces a different batch, with the 2009 batch being a lemon grass witbier and 2010 a Belgian-style scotch ale. In 2011, Terrapin turned Reunion Ale into a collaboration with Shmaltz to create a brown ale brewed with cocoa nibs, vanilla and chili peppers.

The 2011 batch was the perfect blend of sweet, savory and spicy. The cocoa added a dryness to balance the rich sweetness of the vanilla, and the peppers added a great kick on the end. The beer turned out to be so popular that they tweaked the recipe a bit – replacing the chili peppers with cinnamon – and re-released it for the 2012 batch. (Note: Each brewery produces its own batch, and this particular one was from Shmaltz.)

The beer pours a very dark brown verging on a black. There’s a huge foamy brownish head on top, nearly four fingers worth. For an 8 percent beer, it doesn’t leave much lacing or alcohol legs to speak of.

On the nose, the spiciness from the cinnamon is very prevalent. There’s definitely that classic bready brown ale smell but with much more of a noticeable bite. The dryness of the cocoa and the sweetness of the vanilla are also very strong. It’s kind of got a French toast quality to it. Smells pretty delicious.

The mouthfeel is very creamy. On the back of the throat, the dryness of the cocoa really shines at first. Coats the tongue in a sweet but dry taste, like eating a spoonful of cocoa powder. The cinnamon pops as it settles a little more and the finish is a mildly sweet vanilla. The flavors come in waves, with each of the main ingredients getting its own pronounced moment, and it all blends together really well.

The 2012 batch is very similar to the 2011 batch, but with more of a sweetness to it than a spiciness. The flavor profile is a perfect mix: not too dry, not too sweet, not too overpowering in any one field. The brown ale base is a good canvas for the rest of the flavors and doesn’t intrude much on the other ingredients. I can’t comment on how it compares to Terrapin’s batch – I’m assuming not much – but overall, it’s just a balanced, well-made and really enjoyable beer.

Also, it’s for a good cause. That’s reason enough to buy a bottle from each brewery.

Stone Smoked Porter (Original, w/ Vanilla Bean, w/ Chipotle Peppers)

Stone Brewing Co.

San Diego, CA

Smoked Porter (w/ Vanilla Bean and w/ Chipotle Peppers)

5.9% ABV

I’m quick to pick up anything new that Stone puts out. I’m usually at the store the week something new comes out to pick it up, and it doesn’t usually last long in my fridge. And when it comes to their year-round slate, I’ve had everything before, and multiple times at that.

Except for one: their 5.9% Smoked Porter.

It was always one of those beers I’d see and think, “Maybe I should pick it up this time,” but I never did. I wasn’t against trying it – I love porters and smoked beer – but I just never bothered to grab a bottle. Of course, now that Stone’s gone and made two new variations of the beer, it was the perfect time to finally pick it up.

The names of the beers speak for themselves. The brewery took the base of Smoked Porter and added fresh vanilla beans in one batch and chipotle peppers in the other. Both variations have been available on tap and cask at the brewery for a while, but this is the first time they’ve bottled them.

The pour on all three is the same: A very deep, dark brown verging on a black, with a finger of a bubbly head that dissipates quickly, along with some mild lacing and nice alcohol legs.

On the original, the nose has a big campfire smoke with a little bit of bacon and smoked meats to. There’s sort of a very dull sweetness on the back, like a really dark chocolate or cocoa. The vanilla bean on that variation hits strong. There’s more smoke at first but the vanilla really shines as it warms. Same with the chipotle. It’s really smokey at first but there’s a lot more heat as it warms up.

The smoke absolutely explodes on the tongue on the original. There’s a huge lingering smoked wood taste. It’s verging on a rauch beer but slightly more subdued. Dark chocolate is present on the back as well as a definite espresso or dark coffee too. At just under 6%, it’s a much lighter and easy drinking porter.

On the vanilla bean variation, that same smokiness is what’s present at first, but the fresh vanilla bean just explodes on the back end. It lingers for a good long while, too. It’s a good clean vanilla tasty, not overly sweet or artificial. Same with the chipotle. The smoke and the peppers blend together perfectly. The heat is very present, but not overpowering, and it becomes a lot more prevalent as it warms.

The consensus among reviews that I’ve seen is that the vanilla bean variation is the better of the two, but I lean a little more toward the chipotle version. I generally hate chipotle beers, but the smoke and the heat on this one was perfect and extremely enjoyable. The vanilla bean was definitely great as well, and the sweetness of the beans mixed with the smoke was a great idea.

If you’re like me and haven’t picked up the original yet, now is the perfect time to try it.