River Dog releases Pappy BA Quad

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Among bourbon fans, Pappy Van Winkle bourbons are some of the most highly sought-after whiskeys on the market, with bottles of the 23-year-old variant garnering thousands of dollars on the after-sale market. Among beer geeks, any beer aged in Pappy barrels is bound to draw a wealth of attention.

Both groups of fans will be happy to know coastal brewery River Dog recently release a version of its Belgian Quad aged in Pappy barrels. Previously tapped at the Music to Your Mouth Festival, the beer is now available in the brewery’s tasting room. The base is an 11% Belgian-style quad with all the quintessential dark fruit and raisin notes, but with a Pappy sheen on top, bumping the final product up to 12% ABV.

Julian Van Winkle, the current president of the Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery, recently gave his stamp of approval to the brew.

Boulevard The Sixth Glass

Boulevard Sixth Glass

Boulevard Brewing Co.

Kansas City, MO

The Sixth Glass Belgian-style Quadrupel

10.5% ABV

I’ve made it clear that Boulevard  is one of the breweries I want to see distributed in South Carolina the most. Every one of their beers I’ve had has been consistently solid, from their year-round products to their rarer offerings. (And, after trying Rye-on-Rye at a recent tasting, my opinion has been solidified ever further.)

But it’s their Smokestack Series that really gets me. Until recently, I’d tried every one in the series – Long Strange Tripel, Tank 7, Dark Truth and Double-Wide – but the most highly touted was The Sixth Glass, Boulveard’s Belgian-style quad. Clocking in at 10.5%, dextrose, brown sugar, dark brown sugar and dark candi syrup are added to a somewhat simplistic malt and hop profile to create “a deep and mysterious libation,” as the website’s description says.

First, I really have to compliment how gorgeous of a beer Sixth Glass is. It’s topped with a massive, foamy head made up of tight bubbles that subside quickly, but never really settle. It’s like there’s a constant half a finger worth of bubbles continuously on top of it. The color is a translucent amber and ruby red with hints of rust and plum in it. Just enough light gets through for you to see how beautiful the colors are.

The nose was surprisingly flat. As with any good quad, there are notes of figs, plums, raisins, toffee, caramel and candied sugar. There’s that thick sweet blend of Belgian yeast, malts and sugar, but nothing really popped on the nose for me.

But the taste? As Magnitude says best, pop pop! That bite of carbonation on the front is a nice bit of foreplay. It continues throughout the mouth as any good Belgian-style beer is wont to do. In the middle of the mouth are big flavors of grape, candied sugar, caramel, bananas and plums. All of those flavors mingle together and linger on the finish, but what’s surprising about the end result is that it’s not overly syrupy or heavy. It’s light, and if anything a bit dry. That sort of zaps the punch of the flavors out a bit, but in a good way. It’s a very sweet quad but in the end manages to keep itself from being too overpowering. It’s a nice break from a lot of quads, which have that syrup flavor linger on the end.

Any quad worth drinking manages to still be big and flavorful but keep everything balanced and in check. Westy 12 does it, as does Straffe Hendrik and Rochefort, and of course the Belgians know how to do it. But for an American quad, The Sixth Glass is one of the best I’ve had. It’s big on flavors, but that dry finish adds a unique touch and one that certainly makes it worth the hype.

Straffe Hendrik Quadrupel

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De Halve Maan Brewery

Bruges, Belgium

Straffe Hendrik Quadrupel

11% ABV

A few weeks back, I wrote about the day trip my wife and I took to Bruges, Belgium while on our honeymoon in Brussels, including our stop at the De Halve Maan, the only brewery still in operation in Bruges. I was incredibly impressed with their beer, including their 11% quad under their Straffe Hendrik label. While everyone rants and raves about Belgian quads such as Westvleteren 12 and Rochefort 10 – including myself – I found the Straffe Hendrik quad to be one of the best beers and Belgian quads I’ve had.

I figured the beer would be just a remnant of our honeymoon and something to look back and reminisce on. So I was floored when I turned a corner at a local beer store a couple of weeks back and, lo and behold, saw that man in the moon staring back at me.

Please excuse me while I wax poetic about this thing.

The appearance is a super deep plum red with a slight mahogany around the edges. There’s a massive foamy head on top that lasts for a long time. The lacing and alcohol legs are absolutely gorgeous

The nose on this thing is hugely sweet, with all the classic quad notes cranked up. The plums, raisins, toffee, caramel, dates, currants, molasses and so on are just epic. It smells so sweet and sweet, and just incredibly luscious.

The mouthfeel is foamy and there’s a good carbonation that scrubs on the palate. There’s a slight medium body mouthfeel. There just a very slight hop bitterness on the front and the flavors are gorgeous on the finish. The richness of the caramel is very strong. It’s mixed with those classic dark fruits – figs, plums, dates – with a very slight chocolate note. Slight bubblegum, slight cinnamon and spice, slight vanilla. It’s all there, and it’s phenomenal.

To me, this is a beer that belongs in the debate for the best quad in the world. Westy 12, Rochefort 10 and St. Bernardus Abt 12 are always brought up for debate, as they should. But the Straffe Hendrik quad is just as good – if not better – than any or all of those quads. It leans on the big flavorful side, but the richness is not overtly strong. And I’ll be damned if I could tell this was an 11% beer if I didn’t know going in.

If you ever happen to see the man in the moon glaring at you from a store shelf, grab it without thinking twice.

Trappistes Rochefort 10

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Brasserie de Rochefort, Abbey of Notre-Dame de Saint-Remy

Rochefort, Belgium

Trappistes Rochefort 10 Belgian Quad

11.3% ABV

My Belgian beer kick was in full swing after getting home from my recent honeymoon in Belgium, and my thirst for try Belgian beers I had seen around forever yet never tried needed to be quenched. While you’d be hard pressed to come across any Westvleteren 12 in South Carolina, there is one beer that’s a close competitor, and one that many consider better than Westy 12: Rochefort 10.

Opened in 1595, Rochefort is one of the world’s seven trappist breweries. And much like their trappist counterparts, their selection is small and to the point. There’s Rochefort 6, a 7.5% Belgian strong ale brewed once a year; Rochefort 8, a 9.2.% strong ale and the brewery’s biggest product; and Rochefort 10, a massive 11.3% quad. All three are readily available around my area but I always pass by them when making a beer run.

After finally trying 10, I’ll never make that mistake again.

The beer has a very deep, muddy water appearance. There’s a finger and a half of an off-white head that dissolves quickly.  Lacing’s not too strong but the alcohol legs are gorgeous and hang on forever.

There’s a huge, thick sweetness on the nose. Big notes of butterscotch and raisins, and light wisps of the classic quad flavors including plums, figs, dates and caramel. There’s a sort of candy sweetness as well, and the alcohol definitely leaves a light sting.

The mouthfeel on this thing is just luscious. There’s just a hint of very slight carbonation, and it’s thick and creamy and just melts over your palate. The thing coats your throat like melted caramel. The butterscotch explodes on the back as do the raisins and those other dark fruit notes. It’s leaves this sugary film on your lips, again like eating a piece of caramel. You don’t taste the alcohol, but you sure feel it after a few sips.

I think there’s a definite argument to be made as to whether Rochefort 10 or Westy 12 is better. They have the same base flavors – what you’d expect in a Belgian quad – but whereas Westy keeps everything balanced and even, Rochefort turns them up to 11, giving you huge, rich and luxurious flavors throughout. Balance be damned, this thing is a kick in the mouth as far as flavors go. I don’t know how or why I passed over this time and time again, but just thinking about how good it was makes me want another one.

Trappist Westvleteren Blond, 8 and 12

Toward the western end of Belgium, in the Flanders region a couple of hours outside of Brussels, is The Abbey of Saint Sixtus of Westvleteren. Inside that abbey there are monks, and those monks make beer. It’s great beer. It’s the most sought-after beer in the world. It’s beer that most beer geeks will never try.

I have had those beers, and I’m here to tell you that yes, they are as good as you’ve heard.

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So, here’s the deal. On the first day of my honeymoon in Brussels, my wife and I stopped into De Biertempel, a touristy beer store, to see what they had on hand. I had read on BeerAdvocate that the store was one of the where Westy – as Westvleteren beers are colloquially known – was sold. It doesn’t happen often because the monks limit how much beer people can purchase at the abbey, and because people are forbidden to resell the beer. So I wasn’t surprised when I didn’t find any of the beers the abbey makes – Blond, 8 and 12 – on the shelves.

But later that week, I had a hunch and decided to check the shop out again, just in case. For whatever reason, my hunch was right: A couple of days earlier, the shop had gotten a shipment, and the shelves were stocked. As you can see from this photo, I was in a bit of shock.

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I know buying the beer was probably bad karma, but it’s hard to resist. Westy 12 is widely considered to be the best beer in the world, and once I got my hands on a bottle, it was going to be hard to let it go. So, I caved and picked up one of each.

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Let’s get to it.

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Trappist Westvleteren Blond – Belgian blond – 5.8% ABV

The pour is a brilliantly clear golden yellow. There’s a good bit of sediment floating around, maybe due to me getting too excited with the pour. Two fingers of a creamy, thick head linger on the top. The lacing is absolutely gorgeous, and it’s got some nice alcohol legs.

The nose is pure Belgian. It’s a bit biting and there’s a really good funk to it with that classic horse blanket smell. That’s blended with hints of green grapes and pears to make a really sprightly smelling beer.

There’s a good bite of carbonation on the tip of tongue. It’s very smooth throughout the mouth, but the carbonation pops on the back again. That funky, mellow sourness rises on the back as well. The taste of green grapes are very present. Belgian yeast is very prevalent as well. For a blond, it’s got a good bite to it.

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Trappist Westvleteren 8 – Belgian dubbel – 8% ABV

Westy 8 pours a deep, murky amberish brown color. There’s a finger of head that dissipates really quickly, but absolutely gorgeous lacing and alcohol legs.

There’s a big, big caramel nose. It’s very effervescent for a dubbel. There are tons of figs, cinnamon, apples and a bit of spice flooding out of the glass. Great smelling beer and very complex

The beer has a sort of lighter to medium body and huge carbonation throughout. The figs and caramel erupt on the finish. Lots of dates, cinnamon and plum throughout as well. A big sweet malt character to it. Slightly apple tartness, slightly boozy for 8% but insanely well-balanced and drinkable.

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Trappist Westvleteren 12 – Belgian quad – 10.2% ABV

And now, the main event. The white whale of white whales. The so-called best beer in the word: Westy 12.

The pour is a deep dank brown color. Very, very murky. Two fingers of a head on top that settles into a really nice film that lingers. Very strong lacing and really nice alcohol legs as well.

There’s definitely a slight booziness on the nose, which is just a classic quad: figs, plums, molasses, caramel and toffee, and a slight nuttiness. But what’s interesting is that one thing doesn’t overpower the other. They’re all there, but one doesn’t overpower the other. They all blend together perfectly.

There a very slight carbonation pinch on the front of the tongue. That follows through the mouth along with a medium body mouthfeel. The end is so, so well-balanced. Everything blends together and works perfectly. Honey, plums, brown sugar, molasses, dates, cinnamon, spice, raisins … they’re all there. The taste is kind of creamy and a bit boozy, but not overpowering. It’s definitely one of the most well-balanced beers I’ve ever had.

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So, now that I’ve tried the infamous Westy 12 – twice – the question is, Is it the best beer in the world?

First off, I don’t think that’s for me or anyone else to make. It’s a very subjective question and not one that’s easily answered. What I think is that the lure of Westvleteren beers creates a manufactured importance, and people certainly get caught up in the hype. It’s hard to live up to the expectations you have in your head.

That being said, Westy 12 – as well as Blond and 8 – are truly phenomenal beers. Is Westy 12 the best beer I’ve ever had? No. Is it one of the best beers I’ve ever had? Absolutely. Is it the best quad I’ve ever had? It’s a definite contender. Quads are massive beers as far as taste goes, and to make one that is balanced and extremely drinkable is tough, but these monks know what they’re doing. As for the blond and 8, they’re each some of the best I’ve had for their respective styles.

I think the hype and lure of Westvleteren is a bit too much, as is the hype around many other highly prized beers. But I think they’re definitely an argument to be made that they’re some of the best in the world.

Regardless of what I may think about Westvelteren’s beers, should you ever come across one or all of these, don’t think twice about picking them up.

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A Brewlywed Honeymoon in Belgium – Part 3 (The Beers of Bruges and Gent)

I’m taking a break from reviews this week to focus on my recent honeymoon in Brussels, Belgium. During the next few days, I’ll be covering my thoughts on the culture, the craft and – of course – the amazing beer and breweries my bride and I enjoyed while on our trip in what many consider to be the mecca of beer.

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After hopping around Brussels for a couple of days, my wife and I decided to plan a couple of day trips to other cities nearby to see some of the other sites. And, of course, the other breweries.

On our third day, we hopped a train to Bruges, which is about an hour outside of Brussels. We climbed the 366-step bell tower, browsed the open-air central market and made nice with a few other tourists. In case you’re wondering, the city is much nice – and much less violent – than “In Bruges” makes it out to be.

Bruges is also home to De Halve Maan  (The Half Moon), Bruges’ only active family owned brewery which really came to be in the mid 1800s. During the past few centuries, the brewery has grown and modernized, going through some tough times but reopening in 2005 and still going strong.

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An open-air beer garden sits outside while a cozy and modern tasting room that serves the brewery’s four beers: a blond and dubbel under the Brugse Zot brand and a trippel and quad under the Straffe Hendrik name.

But before we got to the beer, we took a tour through the modern and original brew house. When you first walk in, you stand among all the expected brewing equipment. If you’ve been to a brewery, you know how it all works.

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From there, it’s up a series of staircases through the original brewing equipment. There was the upper loft, where they kept all the hops and grains; the roasting room, where all the grains were heated just right (as well as a mirror pointing up the original exhaust shaft); the original coolship, where all the beers were once cooled; the original brew kettles; and eventually outside to the top-most point, where you can look down on the old and new brew house.

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After all the walking, we were left to our own devices in the tasting room. The Brugse Zot Blond was a classic blond with a peppery bite. The Brugse Zot Dubbel was rich with carbonation and big flavors of plums and toffee.

The classic were great, but the big boys were the ones that really shined. The Straffe Hendrik Tripel had a really interesting tropical fruit note with a caramel coating. But the big daddy – the 11% Straffe Hendrik Quad – was one of the best quads – hell, one of the best beers – I’ve had. Massive carbonation, a gigantic punch of brown sugar and figs and nary a hint of alcohol (until after you down it). There was a barrel-aged version in the gift shop for sale, but sadly, I made the decision to buy it right after the last bottle had sold.

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The following day, we made another day trip to Gent, which is about halfway between Bruges and Brussels. There aren’t too many touristy things in Gent, so we just wandered the streets and shops and scoped the place out.

We happened to stumble upon Gruut, Gent’s city brewery. The brewery gets its name from the coinage once used to purchase gruit, a herb similar to hops. (An image of one of the coins is used as the brewery’s logo.) To honor their history, Gruut uses the gruit herb in their beers in place of hops. It’s a specialty spice that has a lot of similarities to hops, and in the beer tastes like a slightly less pungent hop.

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The brewery itself, which lies at the corner of two canals, is extremely modern inside, and resembles more of a cafe than a brewery. There are tables scattered outside and inside along with the brewing equipment. It’s very clean and modern, and on a nice day like the day we visited, was the perfect place to pop in for a couple of drinks.

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With five beers on tap and us wanting to try a bit of each, my wife and I decided to go for the sampler, which cost just a handful of euros. We were expecting small tasting glasses to get just a nip of everything, and then we’d purchase full drinks.

Well, the Belgians don’t play around. The “tasters” we received were five full-pour 12 oz. glasses of each of the beers.

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Our “tasters” included the following (which are right to left in the above photo):

  • Gruut Wit, your standard 5% witbier with a mellow sweetness and a slight bite;
  • Gruut Blond, a surprisingly rich, full-bodied and spicy 5.5%-er that was easily the best blond I’ve ever tasted;
  • Gruut Amber, a really superb 6% amber with a bit caramel note and some bready sweetness;
  • Gruut Bruin (Brown), a bit higher at 8% but with an incredibly smooth and rich nutty flavor;
  • Gruut Inferno, their damn-impressive 9% trippel with huge carbonation and a big, spicy punch of rosemary and sage.

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Having never heard of either of these breweries stateside, I was floored at how good their beers were. Even the standard fare such as blonds, browns and ambers – the standard three beers for nearly all Belgian breweries – tasted better than the vast majority of their American brethren. They’re hidden gems among the Cantillons and trappist breweries that usually grab the attention of folks in the states. Because of beers like the ones I had at De Halve Maan and Gruut, I’m now a little more inquisitive about and apt to try Belgian beers I’ve never heard of before.

Ommegang Three Philosophers

Brewery Ommegang

Cooperstown, NY

Three Philosophers Belgian Quad

9.8% ABV

With my last Ommegang review looking at the lighter side of the spectrum, I thought it fitting to go all the way to the other extreme and look at one of the brewery’s bigger offerings.

I don’t remember the first time I had Three Philosophers, but I bet two things happened when I did: 1) It knocked me on my ass, and 2) I absolutely loved it. As a longtime fan of Belgians, having a style as great as a quad blended with kriek is a great combination. The rich, dark fruit qualities of the quad are giving a light and tart sweetness from the cherry flavors. It’s definitely a sipper, but one you’ll want to savor.

The pour is a murky brown color with a redish tint. There’s a finger of head, although that dissipates to film on the top fairly quickly. Pretty good lacing brought on by the bit of lingering head and some nice strong alcohol legs from the nearly 10% ABV.

On the nose is a rich bready note with a hint of cherries to it. It’s a big, chewy breadiness mixed with those classic quad notes: figs, rasins, plums and molasses. The cherry is also very prevalent, giving it that rich sweet smell. It’s more of a black cherry smell, which blends nicely with the other dark fruits. The Belgian yeast is very noticeable and strong as well.

First thing on the tastebuds is the standard quad taste with that great hint of cherry added to it. The carbonation is very strong on the front. Caramel and toffee notes are the first thing that hit you, followed by the dark fruits. It ends with a great tart cherry flavor on the back. That strong breadiness and malt blend is also prevalent on the back. There’s a very big mouthfeel that really lingers, too.

This, to me, is a “gateway” quad. While quad’s aren’t really a hard style to get into, the more you have them, the more you appreciate their different subtleties, and this is a great way to get someone started.